Wednesday and Thursday have come and gone as they do.
The Hermitage called us back to look at the little visited Archaeological collection around the corner, down the steps etc. Warned that several of the rooms were closed we arrived to find the most amazing collection of artefacts from up to 8000 years ago.
We specifically wanted to see the petroglyths housed there which dated to 2000BC. Just as we were really impressed with the Egyptian collection the day before, the depth of these exhibits just blew us away. As warned, several of the rooms were closed off but, bless her heart, the room supervisor could see how impressed we were and surreptitiously waved us through. We saw early statues, flints, tools, jewellery from all over the Russian and Soviet spheres from many different finds- all collected into this central collection. Our friendly woman then, with no English, managed to indicate we needed to go up the stairs then down another set and into the Syberian exhibit and the Russian Cultural halls. She had tears in her eyes when we suggested taking her picture. We were the only visitors down there, a boring place for her to be sure, so she must have been really appreciative.
There it was. What Ash had read about. A collection of items found under the permafrost in perfect well almost perfect) condition more than 3000 years old. This included the mummy of a tribal chief taken from his burial plot with all the artefacts. He was so preserved the skin on his arms, like leather was covered in tattoos still. There were burial masks with intact hair, leather clothes with little deterioration, Hair that looked like hair and even wooden carvings and tools. It was fascinating.
Further along we saw fragments of weaving and textiles, beautifully preserved and presented. The whole area was just a treat and there were no crowds. I don't think many people realize it is there, they generally rush off to the more populated (and popular) "art" rooms.
After another 3 hour stint we were museumed out so found ourselves just wandering around for the rest of the day. Well, hardly just wandering. We wasted the rest of the day trying to find an internet café to put our blogs on. They were all closed, or the internet had a problem, or in other cases, a common occurence in Russia, we walked straight past them without realizing they were there. It really is difficult to find what you are looking for here. We found the closest café to us on the way back after a 3 hour session wandering looking.
A few beers, a blog, dinner and a sunset wander found us home early- around midnight. It wasn't even dark.
Today found us jumping a boat to Peterhof, Peter's summer palace about 30kms up the river. Originally he built a bit of a shack to hang around up there supervising the building of his naval vessels but he liked it so much he had a palace built. You should see it. The most amazing thing is the 180 fountains all powered through gravity. Just incredible for its day and age. It is like a water theme park. There were trick fountains in the garden that squirted you as you walked past and little paved fountains you could dare to squirt you. Fountains that rotated and fountains like umbrellas you stood under. Fountains that looked like giant chess boards and just your run of the mill gold figurine fountains by the score just outside his door and in view of every palace room. The scale is astounding and very beautiful. Peterhof was his Versailles. The gardens were immaculately cared for and it was great to see hoards of Russian tourists and I suppose locals enjoying them. The watery afternoon was topped off when thunder clapped and the skies let rip. All in a day's fun.
Surprisingly, when we arrived back in St Petersburg, there had been no rain. Hard to believe really. Tired we decided to head for home via Ash's new St Basils. I refer to the most photographed church (by Ash) in Moscow. The St Petersburg equivalent, Spilt Blood (its commonly referred to and abbreviated name) has been totally refurbished after being bombed in the 2nd World War and used by Stalin's regime as a storage area. It took 24 years to build in the 17th century and 27 years to refurbish in the 20th. What a job though. The mosaics are just incredible and will provide pleasure for centuries to come. It unbelievable how they can do it.
Still not home we coffeed, dinnered, engaged in Ash's other new photographic passion of reflections then decided to jump a Russian boat tour of the canals leaving around 10.30pm.
Some of the buildings here, in fact most, are stunning. The singer building is Art Deco and on the corner opposite the bright blue Metro station building and also, on the other side of the street the Kazan Cathedral. The Singer building was built by the sewing machine company and they still keep their windows very clean. It's a bookshop now. Hence the amazing reflections in its windows not to mention the view from the Art deco coffee lounge upstairs.
Heaps of Russians use the canals. They fish, hang over the side fences drinking and hire boats to have parties. The waterways are alive. There are 100 bridges in St Petersburg and from the boat you can see why they refer to it as the Russian Venice. Even tho' this trip was totally in Russian and we decided to go after the main golden glow of evening, it was still good. You don't have to know what it is to appreciate its beauty.
Finally we have knocked off. It is really difficult to come home when the city is still wide awake and it isn't dark. Oh well, Its 2.10am now and I better get to bed before it gets fully light. Tomorrow we are planning an easy day but who knows what we will get up to.
Just have to add that, regarding security in Russia, the only danger we have encountered is getting in the way of a photographer snapping a quickpic. They love their cameras and the Russian women really know how to pose for a photo.
L O L Janet
