My first day in Nelson at the top of the South island was a glorious day for a bike ride round historic landmarks with the Gentle Cycling Company. The tour stopped at the cathedral, churches, old houses large and small and the site of first rugby game ever held in NZ. The Saturday morning market in Nelson was a feast for the senses presenting lots of little art and craft stalls mixed with a variety of culinary options from around the world.
An enjoyable if slightly damp evening was spent at the open air Opera in the Park, though having experienced considerably wetter open air concerts in the UK, it was nothing to complain about! I enjoyed my first introduction to New Zealand culture in the form of the yodelling Topp Twins.
The Nelson region was at its best with bright sunshine, sparkling blue waters and vivid green countryside, all the perfect backdrop for exploring the shops and galleries of Moteueka, Mapua and Rabbit Island and even better for enjoying a cycle ride past vineyards, down country roads to quaint old churches, with a stop in a local winery and picnic lunch along the way. The day was brought to a refreshing end with a brisk dip in a cool river, I enjoyed the coolness of a fruit ice cream a little more!
Leaving Nelson with a car loaded with boot mainly full of my suitcase and assorted snack items and armed with a selection of guidebooks, leaflets, maps, cameras, a selection of music, and enough insect repellant to put off the world’s most determined sandfly, we were ready to go! Leaving Nelson we drove into rainy Picton, and then out along the edge of the Marlborough sounds. Even through a few spots of warm rain the Sounds seemed vast and peaceful in their watery stillness. Once on the east coast the sun came out again and lit up perfect view after view of the coastline and near-empty beaches. Just before reaching Kaikoura we came to a fur seal colony providing a window on the full variety of seal life on the rocks below. Large seals lazed away on a bed of thick rubbery chocolate-coloured seaweed, young pups were play-fighting, and a group of pups enjoyed themselves in the kids pool, a little cove in the rocks which they lollopped into before racing back onto higher ground with the waving crashing in behind them. That evening after a walk on the beach it was no hardship to fall asleep to the sound of the waves on the nearby beach.
The following day dawned overcast but warm and quite windy for the first part of a 3 hour walk round the Kaikoura peninsula. The scenery was wild and raw, and at one point we were surprised to turn a corner and find the path occupied by a large sleeping seal some 4 metres in front. Later that day well-worked muscles were rewarded with a blissful soak in Hamner springs hot pools, trying out a selection of different temperature hot pools and water jets and floating round the lazy river. As the sun set it was no hardship to wallow in the warm spa waters looking up at the darkening pine trees and dimming sky. I spent much time testing out the exact ratio of skin which needed to be exposed to the cool air above the water to maintain an optimum level of comfort.
Lake Tekapo was my favourite lake of all the ones on the trip. I enjoyed some quality cat therapy in the shape of a the hostel cat who I provided with a cosy lap to sit in while I sat on the sofa looking straight out of the full length window at the opalescent blue lake. A bracing walk round the lake front in the wind brought us to the tiny stone Church of the Good Shepherd which looks straight out across the lake to the mountains beyond and presents a view from the alter that no stained glass window could ever match. After a delicious Japanese meal it was a treat to find a sheltered spot in the soft grass and stretch out for perfect view of the night sky. I am never disappointed to feel overwhelmed by the number and brightness of so many stars, and seeing so many shooting stars was just magic.
The next stop was Twizel for a LOTR tour. Oh yes. It also involved costumes. Yes there are photos.
After a restorative hot chocolate next stop was 17km up a metalled road to Aoraki/Mt Cook (Tallest mountain in NZ) information centre. Unfortunately the cloud was a bit low for a view of the snow capped mountain and the Blue Lakes should be reported to the trade descriptions act for being One Green Pond, but at least we got a feel for the area and looked at the postcards in the information centre. Not the car appreciated the road, don't tell the rental company that the headlight nearly fell out. Back out through Twizal again the road then followed along the edge of Lakes Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki, presenting suitably dramatic photo opportunities along the way at each of the respective dams gushing white water into blue lakes through vast concrete feats of engineering.
And so arriving in cold and windy Glasgow, I mean Oamaru, late in the evening, I dressed appropriately in most of the contents of my suitcase and the little blue penguin count could begin. The penguins approach the shore in groups called rafts, between 3 and 6 at a time, and then get washed onto the beach. If they get their timing right they scoot in on a wave and hop off to continue in a dignified (for a penguin) manner up the beach. If the timing is a bit off they get washed back and have to make a second landing attempt, all the while giving the impression that was how they intended to do it all along. The penguins then waddle up the rocks and either wait for others to join them, having a chat with each other while they wait, or continue up the rocks till they make it to the grass at the top and scamper behind the fence towards their nest boxes. Once in their nest boxes they continue to discuss the days' fishing, the weather and the behaviour of the chicks until late into the night. Two young penguins that were still a bit chick fluffy arrived on the rocks further along past the landing beach, then sat wondering where they were supposed to go from there. I could have stayed to watch them for longer, if I weren’t worried the sound of my loudly chattering teeth would disturb the penguins.
The following day dawned clear and warm and it was wonderful to walk in and out of sun and shade thrown by the buildings constructed from thick pale stone, pottering into the galleries and craft shops. Continuing south along the coast we stopped at the Moereki boulders, originally up to two metre diameter completely spherical stones, now in varying states of completeness, on and sunken into the sand. A quick visit to the Matakaea lighthouse and a few yellow eyed penguins were sunning themselves almost directly on the path, unconcerned with everything except their moulting process.
Continuing our tour of Scottish cities with a visit to Dunedin, we took a walk/drive up Baldwin Street, officially the steepest street in the world, with a slope of 19 degrees, and unfortunately the photographs do not do justice to the steepness of the gradient! Next on the tour was a drive round the Otago peninsula before a sunny walk round the Gardens at Lanarch castle, complete with a statue of Alice playing croquet with a flamingo in the garden and the Cheshire cat grinning down from a large tree. The hostel that night was not one of my favourites. It was on the roof of a building and you had to go outside to the bathroom, and the bunk bed was so high I took one look and realised that once I was up there was not going to be much getting down again!
From Dunedin it was onto Te Anau via Gore, which has the exciting accolade of being not only, wait for it, the brown trout fishing capital of NZ, but as luck would have it, the capital of NZ country music. That road overall was not very remarkable, apart from when we had to overtake a house being transported on the back of a lorry, the front door was open and I could see bare light bulbs swinging from the ceiling. The scenery was a bit bleak and dull compared to previous legs, I can tell this because for the first time in ages I have photos of sheep. Arriving in Te Anau the lake was dark and brooding and beautifully clear.
For a trip to Milford sound we joined a small tour bus and were able to sit back and enjoy the scenery while the driver gave a commentary about the land we drove through, his former life as a school teacher and current work he is involved in trapping pests such as stoats to encourage the conservation of the kiwi. The company has the mail contract for delivery to all the remote farmhouses and hotels along the road out to Milford Sound, and as front seat passenger I had to help by throwing a newspaper out of the window onto the mat of one of the hotels, and later on get out and put a mail packet into a mailbox by the side of the road.
Arriving at the 1200 metre-long Homer tunnel, which is one-way and quite narrow, our driver said he know the timings of the traffic light, so although the lights had turned red as we drove up to it he went straight round the line of cars waiting and plunged us into the darkness. Sitting as I was in the front seat, I wasn’t at all concerned about this. It is so narrow that coaches have to stay exactly in the centre to get through. I think he said it goes red in both directions for 10 minutes to allow all cars to go through safely.
Arriving at Milford Sound it was slightly overcast but became clearer as we cruised along the sound. I found it hard to take in the vastness of the steep sides covered in lush plant life, with tall waterfalls at regular intervals as we glided smoothly along for 50 minutes before coming out into the opening to the Tasman sea. On the return journey we saw a pod of dolphins which swam with the boat for a few minutes. Twice the captain stuck the boat’s nose into waterfalls, one of which, Maori legend has it, has rejuvenating properties. You can let me know if it worked! After the cruise we enjoyed a 2 hour round walk to Key Summit, a gentle uphill climb walking alongside a trickling stream with the odd miniature waterfall and stripping off layers of clothes as we ascended into the sunshine. At the top a short nature walk brought a view across to Lake Marian, a tarn in the mountains opposite.
The following day involved a drive to Queenstown alongside another rich turquoise blue lake. It was a perfect driving road with enough bends to keep Jeremy Clarkson happy, though Clarkson doesn’t have to put up with the passenger playing Take That. The great thing about having your own car is that you have the freedom to stop when you like to take pictures along the way, and photos there are many. Arriving into the traffic of Queenstown was a bit of a shock after days of small towns (villages!). It was obviously nearing the end of the financial year and the authorities had decided to embark on resurfacing the entire town centre. So up the Gondola over the sheep we went and two luge runs later (some people enjoyed grabbing air on the jumps, some of us contented ourselves with a discreet 'woohoo' in a tunnel) Back at the top it was warm and sunny and I enjoyed just soaking up the view across the Remarkables (another LOTR scenescape) and watching the paragliders and brave bungee jumpers.
And so on for ice cream in Arrowtown and watching a family panning for gold in the water, the shallow water lit up with flecks of gold among the stones. Then continuing up the twisty Crown Range Road, possibly New Zealand’s highest sealed road but definitely providing spectacular views of the ‘tussock high-country’ (so says my guide book) A stop at the historic Cardrona pub (1863) and a drink by a log fire was comfortable experience.
Another day, another lake, the lovely Wanaka this time. In the morning after a scenic walk round the lake we drove back out along the coast stopping along to way at appropriate view points including Bruce Bay. Arriving at Fox Glacier we walked over dark grey shiest rocks under imposing steep valley sides with shoe-box sized blocks of white ice floating down the grey glacial river. An evening visit to a small glow worm cave impressed some people more than others.
The day dawned overcast and raining, perfect for the planned walk up Franz Josef Glacier! Duly kitted up in waterproof trousers, jacket, fitted with boots, given bag of crampons, gloves and hat we set of for 45 minute walk through bush and across the grey stony river bed, before zig zaging up mounds of grey shist like a group of blue hobbits scrambling over the black rock of Mordor. After a 5 minute rest in the steady rain fitting on the crampons, we climbed further up onto the ice. And so began the icy zigzag past ice channels, up and down steep rough steps cut in the crevices and through ice caves, along steep gullies so narrow we had to shuffle one foot in front of the other attempting to use elbows and arms to balance off one side or other of the wet icy walls. The aim of this was to try and prevent the already sodden mittens from getting... oh well. A decent into an ice cave involved some mental re-grouping as I looked up left to the way out and worked out how to haul myself back up out again. The further up we climbed the cleaner the ice got, with less grey wet rock dusting the opaque white and blue hard ice, running with rain water. Every time we stopped to let the group ahead move on or for people to catch up the water in my boots cooled down until we set of again with a slosh of cold water between the toes. Even the penguin shuffle (stamp feet on spot and shuffle shoulders up and down with hand turned sideways for maximum effect) couldn't take the mind off the soggy sponge of cold water contained in each boot. When it is this wet on a large lump of ice there is no opportune spot for a lunch break, so I practically inhaled a roll attempting to void ingesting wet grey wool from my mittens as it clung to my skins (Are you getting the picture yet?!)
It was a thoroughly enjoyable and exhilarating experience! Even under the so-called waterproof clothes, I was soaked though, and my backpack and the contents of were so wet I may as well have dunked it in the river. I think there was a patch of skin on my neck that remained dry. Fortunately the good folks who plan the trip had the foresight to include entry to the scenic Franz Josef hot pools in the package, and that first dip into 36 perfect degrees of warm water was accompanied by much internal sighing of contentment. It was heavenly to sit in the warm water surrounded by lush native plants and trees and watching the birds that flitted around. After warming external areas, internal areas were attended to with a meal in the local Indian restaurant!
The next day with the inside of the car skilfully decorated with damp items of clothing, we took the opportunity to drive to New Zealand’s famous reflective Lake Matheson. We were provided with a tantalising glimpse of the snow peaked Mt Tasman, but unfortunately the elusive Mt Cook will remain a postcard image for me.
After a stop in Ross, a former Gold-mining town, the road returned to the coast and more scenic view points presented themselves in glorious sunshine along through Hokatika, which was hosting the Wild Food Festival. Although tempted by the thought of stir fried possum, the number of people visiting made it an unattractive prospect. Next up was Greymouth, which was peaceful and quiet in the afternoon sun but I can imagine how bleak and cold it could be in the winter months. Punakaiki brought the pancake rocks. Layers of limestone stacked up like, er, pancakes.
Lunch was spent among the bees in Waiuta, a former gold mining ghost town now consisting of little more than a gravel road with the ruins of former mining buildings, small houses and a cracked swimming pool. A final stop was made at the Buller Gorge swing bridge, the county’s longest at 110metres and home to a significant quantity of sandflies.
Arriving back in Nelson had a distinctly autumnal feel in the late afternoon sun, and the south island experience was nicely rounded off with a lovely walk through the bush around Nelson lakes and a peer over the edge of the jetty at the thick muscular eels lurking in a tangle in the cold clear water below.
