Ash here. Janet has written an earlier post - Do I like Dubrovnik? about Dubrovnik as well. We had to get up early (3.30 am) to catch a taxi from the pansion in Antalya Old town to the airport. Then it was on to Istanbul (three hrs in the Airport) and it was goodbye to Turkey and on to Dubrovnik on the Adriatic Dalmatian coast of Croatia (via Vienna, Austria).
We were both a little sad to be leaving the wonderful Turkey and its people but, of course, excited about getting to Croatia.
A quick bus from Dubrovnik airport and we were dropped off outside the Pile gate (one of two main gates into the fortified old town). Having never travelled in Europe, I was blown away by the amazing medieval architecture, the square, the cathedrals and churches and the marbled streets of Dubrovnik. The statues and figurines were so intricate and detailed, the town so crisp yet dripping with history - it was my first taste of an ancient European city (Istanbul excepted, but it has distinctly Eastern influences). Along the main street there were side alleys, stepped and steep (mountain goat territory as Janet would say). These were full of character, high and dotted with washing hung out to dry and healthy pot plants galore. Our pansion was bang smack in the middle of them. We were very excited and started the short climb to our lodgings when, without warning, thunder cracked and the heavens opened (it was very hot and humid but I've never been caught so unawares by rain in my life). We sheltered under an awning for a while but decided to brave the marbled steps - fortunately they weren't slippery and we didn't get too wet and it was still quite hot and humid. We had a wonderful view from our room in either direction along the stepped alleyway plus a wonderful place to sit outside and catch the cooling evening breezes (skirted by pot plants and the occasional visiting cat).
Added to this were the marvellous city walls, the tops of which you can walk along. I got up early (7.00am) and shot up the entrance steps only to be hailed down by a local who informed me that you couldn't walk them until 8.00am. As it was so hot I was hoping to get an early start to escape the heat and the crowds. To fill in the hour I had a wonderfully relaxed stroll around town, having it pretty much to myself. Soon, I was awakened from my stroll by Janet who had managed to be let into another gate by a local with a key. She rang me on the mobile and I darted around to where she was and we walked the walls.
The views over the terracotta roofed buildings, across to the harbour and out to the islands of the Adriatic were a sight to behold. It was hot (of course, I stupidly hadn't taken a hat and water as I was intending to start and finish early) but we delighted in the views.
Also, we could see the contrasts between the new roofs and the old; the newer - a much brighter terracotta creating somewhat of a patchwork quilt effect. Much of Dubrovnik has been rebuilt after the war in 1991. Dubrovnik was under siege for 8 months (?) in the wake of the collapse of the former Yugoslavia. The locals were bombarded from land, sea and air on all sides, all the time having to make courageous and daring night time forays to procure food and water. Many died in defense of their town, and there is a simple and emotionally moving memorial room which I visited.
One was tempted to think about what the old Dubrovnik was like and to regret the changed face, that it was a pity not to see it as it was, unreconstructed. Of course, on reflection, this is only one more rebuilding of this strategic, defensive and trading port in the Adriatic. War has ravaged it in the past and it has had to be rebuilt. War has ravaged it again and the Croatian government has done a great job in returning it to its former glory. The cycle of war and rebuilding continues. Hopefully, the people of Dubrovnik won't have to do it again.
We ventured out to a nearby island National Park - Lokrum Excellent swimming off the rocks backed by wonderful pines, cypress, olives and mixed forest. Ahead of us on the path were a group of young tourists, keen to ensure that they would be able to find non nudist beaches on the island (Croatia is somewhat of a nudist mecca). They were asking a woman, selling ice creams, who misunderstood and was excitedly proclaiming that if they walked around further they would be able to take their clothes off. The tourists couldn't manage to persuade her that was precisely the opposite of what they wanted. In search of a good spot, we did wander around further and were promptly stopped by a large sign which, both through words and symbols, made it perfectly clear the only form of bathing beyond that point was to be in the nude. We wandered back and had a wonderful few hours swimming in the blue, clear waters of the Adriatic (our chance for a more private skinny dip came on the island of Korcula later). Janet has also written about Lokrum island.
We also were fortunate to attend an open air rock concert by a very popular (with both the young and older) Croatian rock band. The sound was great and we bopped along in the square in front of ancient cathedrals and churches, Janet was a real hit with the young, local girls who were keen to dance with her. A great night.
Must go now. Will write about Korcula Island soon.
