Janet here- long time no blog.
The weather finally improved a bit after our drive day around Hvar, although it came in windy. On Ivanka's advice we decided to walk to a sheltered cove, Mustacio beach. On the way we visited the Franciscan Monastery along the sea wall. It was marvellous and a surprise package with a beautiful art collection and a collection of antiquities- Roman Amphoras, recovered from the sea. Many old traders have been found and one of the main ships had been travelling from Ephesus, in Present day Turkey. There was a real symmetry to look at a vase which may have travelled from the ports we have seen as ruins earlier in our trip.
Our beach day was perfect and we finished it with a leap in faith involving a straight haul up the mountain track, which we were pretty sure would lead us to home. It did, so was worth the effort. Our apartment was a long way up, so it was clever to use the ridge.
We were lucky to get another day with no rain but strong wind. We took a punt- literally, and took a ferry to Mlni, the closest island to Hvar. We did find a sheltered beach and were able to swim and bake there happily. Ash remembered he still had his inflatable pillow and eyeshades in his pack and cut a stunning figure reclining on the rocks like a true lounge lizard.
Our ferry to Split next morning left at 7.30. We thought we would have all day in Split, but as usual, the postal service had other ideas. We couldn't post a painting back without a letter of permission from the Croatian Art Council, and so begins our next postal adventure. We finally found the place and got the letter. An hours worth of effort to be told, on return, that Austalia doesn't allow them to send glass.
Not to be deterred I took the glass out and threw it away then returned with a strong will to post it. Two hours later, after confusion regarding cost, it was finally posted - if the woman sent it!
These minor hiccups make life interesting and as a result of looking for the Cultural office we did find the right place to organize my phone, which had died badly.
The Palace in Split was good but we have seen a lot of these walled cities now and have become a bit blasé. I spent quite a few moments trying out the acoustics within the walls. There were plenty of places designed for good acoustics. One male quintet performing folk songs allowed me to sing "yesterday" with them. Later, after another group left an area beside the silver gate, I had another sing. The acoustics really were special.
Trogir proved to be another amazing example of an old walled city. After much foophing about, we finally found our apartment. Actually we had a house to ourselves, in a suburban street, 5 mins from the town. A Croatian teacher of English and History was our host- well of sorts. She met us, gave us the key, we compared notes on teaching to find Croatian schools just like ours and teachers feeling just like us- overworked and unappreciated, then went back to Split. We spent the evening exploring Trogir and marvelling at the Church carvings.
We seem to see a lot of weddings. The cars line up as a procession and everyone toots their horns. Small groups are hired to serenade the guests and the bride and groom. The weddings are great. Sunday morning, as we left for the airport at 5am, we saw a few wedding guests heading home. A wedding is a serious time to make merry etc.
The weather isn't really up to beaching. Saturday was incredibly windy so we decided to hire a car and head for Krka National Park. On the way, we stopped for lunch at Primosten, a lovely little seaside village. We were almost blown away, the wind was so strong. It was a pity really as the coast road would be stunning in better conditions.
We were pleasantly surprised that Krka NP had less wind and we were able to enjoy the most stunning Travertines and waterfalls.. an absolute haven.
I am struggling now to keep awake. The day is so long with a 5.00am start to catch a plane. On the way up we flew over our apartment. Being right below the low flying planes was a feature of our apartment as they thundered past day and night.
After the park we visited Sibonic and another inspiring church, with UNESCO protection. The carvings were like Trogir and we were fortunate to slip in and hear the pipe organ playing for another wedding.
The sound was truly grand and we marvelled at it. The carved figures around the church are thought to be representative of the residents at the time of building.
Today we have travelled via Zagreb airport from Trogir to Rovinj. It isn't disappointing. A small harbour with Venetian style buildings in pinks and yellows,- a welcome addition to the usual town. It has rained again today but hopefully tomorrow we can hire some bikes and go riding. We are thinking of taking a ferry to Venice on Wednesday and then it is off from Croatia to Slovenia.
I do feel a bit travel weary, even though we have slowed down. It sounds outrageous but it would be good to sit down with a takeaway in front of the old ABC and watch a serial.
Well, off to dinner. We don't have a connection here so will be a bit our of touch.
Love Janet
